Tag Archives: Michelin

Four San Francisco restaurants receive new Michelin Star honors

Four of San Francisco’s top dining destinations achieved new Michelin star honors on Monday, Dec. 5, during the 2022 edition of the Michelin Guide California ceremony held in Los Angeles. Eighteen California restaurants were recognized in all.

San Francisco-based restaurants receiving their first coveted Michelin star include Nisei, Osito, San Ho Won and Ssal. Press in St. Helena and Localis in Sacramento also received the prestigious recognition, where restaurants are judged by anonymous dining inspectors who visit establishments during lunch and dinner service at various times throughout the year.  

Chef David Yoshimura of Nisei was also honored with the Michelin Young Chef Award. According to Michelin’s anonymous chief inspector, Yoshimura is a chef who is “full of personality” with dishes elevated by his personal culinary journey.

“Chef Yoshimura is just under 35, and I say, he embodies exactly what we’re looking for in a young talent,” the inspector told SFGATE. “His cuisine represents a unique perspective and background and is captured in his cooking that’s both ambitious and highly personal.” 

Nisei’s tasting menu is “equal parts tradition and invention, where a classic matsutake broth sits in harmony with a wholly original dessert of Okinawan purple sweet potato.”

Brianna Danner

In total, there are 89 restaurants with Michelin-star status in California and seven of those establishments garnered the three-star ranking. Michelin’s secret restaurant inspectors also awarded two new Green Stars, bringing the state tally of restaurants leading in sustainable practices to 11. There are only two Green-Starred restaurants in any other U.S. states.

Green Stars are awarded to restaurants that are true front-runners in gastronomy and are role models for their guests and peers. 

“That shows also that chefs here are real trendsetters, influencers and California as a whole is definitely a culinary powerhouse,” said international director of the Michelin Guides, Gwendal Poullennec. “California really has something to say and has a strong voice now in the world of culinary conversation. It has a strong identity when it comes to the quality of the produce. It’s really a part of the California culinary identity.”



Poullennec added that the three-star Michelin level is the “crème de la crème” in terms of gastronomy restaurants in the U.S. and beyond. There are 142 restaurants at the three-star level worldwide, with 40 three-star restaurants in the U.S.

“When we look at the number of three-stars in the U.S., so now we have seven in California, and that’s a lot,” he said. “If we look at the U.S. as a whole, it’s the No. 3 destination in the world in terms of the number of restaurants with the three-star label.”

Chef Seth Stowaway puts his “heart, soul and even his nickname (osito means ‘little bear’) into this rustic, lodge-like spot.”

Molly DeCoudreaux

Out of the 18 California restaurants recognized this year for new stars, eight of them are promotions. These were restaurants that were already a part of Michelin’s highly ranked selections and inspectors kept close watch over them throughout the year. The anonymous chief inspector listed Ssal in San Francisco and Localis in Sacramento listed as examples of restaurants getting promoted.

The Michelin Guide is all about consistency, according to Poullennec, who noted that the guide was started in 1900 and hasn’t changed its approach and criteria since then. For more than one century Michelin’s inspectors have followed the same methodology based on five universal criterions: “the quality of the food based on the quality of the products, the master of cooking techniques, the balance of flavors, the personality expressed on the plate, and lastly the consistency.”

Localis chef-owner Christopher Barnum-Dann “brings unusual warmth to this intimate setting” in Sacramento. This is Localis first Michelin star recognition.

Localis

Below is the list of San Francisco restaurants that took home the esteemed Michelin recognition with comments from the secret inspectors. For a full list of all 89 Michelin-starred establishments in California visit here. 

Nisei 
San Francisco, Japanese/Contemporary cuisine

“‘Nisei’ refers to the American-born children of Japanese immigrants, which Chef David Yoshimura is; and the synthesis of that heritage forms the basis of this cuisine. The kitchen employs both boldness and subtlety in their cooking, which abounds with personality and technical finesse. The tasting menu is equal parts tradition and invention, where a classic matsutake broth sits in harmony with a wholly original dessert of Okinawan purple sweet potato.”

Osito 
San Francisco, Contemporary cuisine

“Chef Seth Stowaway puts his heart, soul and even his nickname (osito means ‘little bear’) into this rustic, lodge-like spot where live-fire cooking takes center stage. The multicourse tasting menu is served at an expansive communal table and changes with the seasons. The food is both elemental and elevated, with a subtle perfume of smoke wending through the various courses, seen in dishes like a lightly cooked king salmon with fennel and porcini, or a slow-cooked brisket brushed tableside with an intensely savory mussel BBQ sauce.”

San Ho Won 
San Francisco, Korean cuisine

“Combining the prodigious talents of heavy-hitter Chefs Corey Lee and Jeong-In Hwang, here it’s safe to expect the exceptional. The kitchen’s assiduously refined technique deftly combines traditional Korean tastes with a sense of novelty, using impeccable ingredients to make for dishes of surpassing depth and purity of flavor, whether it be the humble kimchi or a rarefied cut of beef.”

Ssal 
San Francisco, Korean cuisine

“Hyunyoung and Junsoo Bae have ample fine dining experience but were inspired to strike out on their own to fill what they saw as a void in San Francisco’s Korean restaurant scene. The result is this tasting menu that draws upon familiar flavors, but sets itself apart with a sense of refined simplicity. Meticulously prepared seafood shows a dedication to craft, as in black cod partially dried before being grilled to achieve a skin so crunchy it can be heard from across the room. Beef short ribs are something of a signature, gently cooked sous vide, then seared to form a sweet-savory crust.”

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255 restaurants, 37 Michelin stars: Meet the American who spent a year eating his way through Singapore

Singapore (CNN) — No one wants to be stuck in a foreign country during a global pandemic.

But, by his own admission, 25-year-old Jon Lu, an American software engineer, chose to remain in Singapore when the world’s borders began to shutter last year.

“I arrived in Singapore for the first time in August 2019, although my time was mostly spent abroad for work,” says the New York native. “I didn’t start truly living in Singapore until March 2020.”

The Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) grad says that he had a choice of where he wanted to be based during his year-long project in Asia.

Fluent in both English and Mandarin, Lu — a recreational figure skater who used to participate in intercollegiate competitions — ultimately decided on Singapore.

He worked hard for the most part, practicing figure skating about four to five times a week. But he also did what Singaporeans do best — eat.

As of today, the American has visited a total of 255 food and beverage establishments including cafes and hawker stalls, covering 30 Michelin-rated restaurants with 37 Michelin stars collectively (55 Michelin stars including repeat visits).

An impressive feat, considering the city’s restaurants were closed to in-person dining for more than two months, not to mention the fact he was temporarily sidelined due to ill health.

When the city entered into a nationwide partial lockdown — also known as the Circuit Breaker — from April 7 to June 1, 2020, eateries were forced to offer takeout only. That didn’t stop Lu, who continued to eat well by ordering food deliveries, not once but twice a day, for the first half of the period.

But these were no ordinary meals. He chose to focus on the city’s many gastronomic offerings, including Michelin-starred venues that often take weeks if not months to secure tables in.

“It was such a tough time for the F&B industry — I wanted to do as much as I could to help support local businesses,” Lu says, adding that some of his most memorable Circuit Breaker meals were tasting menus designed for the home, where he’d have to put finishing touches on the dishes himself.

“One such meal was from Odette at Home,” says Lu, who even managed to procure a table cloth and a small potted plant from staff in the hotel he’d been staying in for a month to recreate the feted French restaurant’s booth seat within his room.

“It was such a tough time for the F&B industry — I wanted to do as much as I could to help support local businesses.”

Jon Lu, American software engineer

But in early May, Lu started having issues with his vision.

Doctors diagnosed him with retinal vein occlusion, caused by extremely elevated LDL cholesterol levels — presumably a result of the foodie’s dining habits over the preceding seven-month period of intensive traveling and eating before the lockdown.

It didn’t help that gyms and ice rinks were closed.

“I worked with local specialists to treat the vision symptoms and started running every day,” Lu says. “I also went on a low cholesterol, heart-healthy diet for two months during which I avoided foods moderate to high in added sugars.”

After two months of dieting and running, Lu’s health issues were resolved. In July, just a few weeks after dining in was allowed under the city’s second reopening phase, he started populating his calendar with reservations again.

Lu’s top dining picks

American software engineer Jon Lu has eaten at Michelin-starred Odette, helmed by chef Julien Royer, four times.

Jon Lu

Having sampled the cream of Singapore’s top restaurants, a feat that even food critics would take a year or two to accomplish, Lu is well-positioned to offer advice on where to find the city’s finest eats.

Joining his ranks of favorite Michelin-awarded restaurants is chef Julien Royer’s three Michelin-starred Odette, where Lu has dined four times. He highly rates the contemporary French restaurant for its “incredibly refined and technically well executed” cuisine, headlined by Royer’s signature Pigeon “Beak to Tail” course, that “tastes amazing.”

In the Japanese category, Lu singles out the one Michelin-starred Sushi Kimura, which he has visited twice. He says that chef-owner Tomo-o Kimura offers “thicker” and “more exotic” cuts of fish — like sujiko (salmon roe sac), oki aji (white-tongue jack fish) and usubu hagi (unicorn leatherjacket fish). That’s not to mention Kimura’s shari (sushi rice), which is “amazingly firm and airy” and served at the “perfect temperature.”

When it comes to Singaporean cuisine, it’s the Michelin-starred Labyrinth by chef Han Li Guang that pulls at Lu’s heartstrings.

The restaurant is famed for showcasing elevated versions of local dishes — like the Signature Chilli Crab — that are unmistakably Singaporean in origin, with ingredients mostly locally sourced. Lu declares his November trip to Labyrinth, his second, to be one of his favorite post-Circuit Breaker meals.

Among Lu’s top Japanese picks in Singapore is Sushi Kimura.

Jon Lu

Menu standouts include the Ang Moh Chicken Rice and An Ode to Cairnhill Steakhouse, both of which pay homage to Han’s grandmother and grandfather respectively.

Michelin-rated restaurants aside, Lu also makes a point of checking out new eateries. His favorite new opening, Euphoria, serves “gastro-botanica” cuisine created by Singaporean chef-owner Jason Tan during his time at the one-starred Corner House.

“At the heart of Euphoria are four botanical essences made purely from vegetables,” says Lu. “I was extremely impressed by how tasty every single dish was, and particularly by the complexity of flavor from the vegetable components.”

In spite of his impressive coverage of reputed restaurants, Lu says he does not believe in “star chasing” — i.e. dining at a restaurant solely on the basis that it has been awarded stars by Michelin. There remain 13 starred restaurants in Singapore that he has not visited.

His most-visited venue in Singapore, the two-year-old avant-garde restaurant Preludio, has no stars.

Run by Colombian chef Fernando Arevalo, Preludio serves “author’s cuisine” that revolves around a yearly changing theme called “chapter.” From its debut Monochrome chapter, Lu raves about the Pata Negra course with “astounding” flavors, featuring panko crumb-breaded Iberico pork shoulder with a “distinctive” blend of spices — cumin, cayenne and paprika — paired with tomatoes soaked in a two-day marinade.

“As someone who usually doesn’t like to repeat dishes at fine-dining restaurants, the fact that I’ve already dined at Preludio nine times (in 2020) is a testament to their inventiveness,” says Lu.

Inspired by “Chef’s Table”

Lu says that eating out and exploring food spots has been a hobby since 2015, when he interned in downtown Chicago and was surrounded by myriad food options within walking distance of his office.

Since then, the avid food lover says he’s visited at least 300 different restaurants every year, starting with cafes and casual outlets, before graduating to finer venues in 2019.

Attributing his interest in fine dining to the Netflix Series “Chef’s Table,” Lu says he was fascinated by how the show depicted food as a seemingly boundless art form, limited only by the chef’s skill and imagination.

“There were so many instances where I’d watch an episode and immediately bookmarked the featured restaurant, saying to myself that I need to dine there one day,” says Lu, who visited popular global restaurants GAA, MUME, Central, Dinner by Heston, NARISAWA and Momofuku Seiobo between September 2019 to March 2020. He’s shared many of his dining experiences on his Instagram account.

The American says that Singapore has certainly been the “most impressive” dining city so far, and that it is “entirely possible” to eat out every day at a quality venue without repeating meals for years.

“The variety of cuisines as well as the range of available ingredients (which truly span every corner of the world) in Singapore is incredible,” says Lu.



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