Tag Archives: andy warhol

George Lois Changed Magazines—And Pop Culture—Forever

As an art director for Esquire in the 1960s, George Lois assailed Muhammad Ali with arrows, drowned Andy Warhol in a can of soup, and prepped Richard Nixon’s profile for a close-up. He stunned minds to attention, making magazine covers that spoke so urgently, they muted an entire newsstand’s worth of bold headlines. Through Lois’s work, history was reified.

I wasn’t alive in the ’60s, but I can tell you that many of the era’s visual markers that arise in my mind were made by Lois. (And I’m surely not alone in this—the Museum of Modern Art secured several of his works for its permanent collection.) He was a fierce and uncompromising visual visionary, a provocateur whose wordless commentary refracted America through dozens of roughly 8-by-10-inch canvases. He possessed an uncanny ability to channel collective sentiment in a time of deep political divide, but more than that, he transmitted messages that America didn’t realize it was ready to embrace. Until he died this past weekend at age 91, George Lois was the greatest living magazine art director. He will be remembered as a pioneering graphic artist of the 20th century.

Before Esquire, Lois made his bones as an ad man developing campaigns for Xerox and John F. Kennedy’s presidential campaign. He was Bronx-born—brash, passionate, and willing to throw down the gauntlet to defend his ideas. Rumored to be the inspiration for Mad Men’s Don Draper, Lois rejected the comparison altogether (which is fair, because Draper didn’t have nearly as tight a grip on the counterculture as Lois did). Through advertising, Lois honed his stylish and daring sensibilities, which would carry him through a decade in magazines and then on to MTV, where he rescued a flailing brand and turned it into a zeitgeist-defining entity.

In 2019, when Peter Mendelsund and I began redesigning The Atlantic, no designer had more influence on us. Lois’s work left us no choice but to contend with it, occupying, as it does, a dominant space in the cultural imagination. We studied his covers, seeking to bring a similar sensibility to The Atlantic, which is to say we tried to copy him often. A common thread in Lois’s most searing designs is the relationship of typography to image. He frequently relied on a striking central visual component to anchor the cover while the rest of the elements remained deferential. This required bravery—as well as immense trust in the public—and removed the onus from the language. He reduced the cover’s typography to Lilliputian scale in order to harness the image’s massive power.

In 1968, Lois subjected Ali to the fate of Saint Sebastian, using arrows to martyr the iconoclastic athlete. In the cover’s bottom right-hand corner sits a small headline of five words. This magazine cover, among the most famous in American history, manages to confront race, religion, and the Vietnam War in a single conceptual image that is as brutal as it is brilliant.

Two covers designed by George Lois for Esquire. Left: Issue No. 413, April 1968. Right: Issue No. 367, June 1964

Over dozens of Esquire issues, he didn’t just create iconic images; he deployed existing icons in order to subvert, reframe, and recontextualize them. Take his 1964 cover of Kennedy, with a hand photographed in the foreground of the frame, wiping away an imagined tear. This meta visual move adds friction to a static image; it forces us to confront and process tragedy in a new way. It turns the magazine, newsstand price 60 cents, into something that transcends its form—into something more like art.

From Jiffy Lube ads to the campaign for “I Want My MTV” to the boxer Sonny Liston donning a Santa hat on the cover of Esquire, contemporary American culture looks and feels the way it does in part because of Lois’s genius. If you’ve ever been struck by a piece of design in our pages, you might now recognize the traces of his influence. Even if you don’t, I can tell you that it’s there (our December 2019 and November 2021 covers are both valiant attempts at homage). History has no choice but to remember George Lois; he was an integral part of the machine of remembering.

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Supreme Court Could End Fair Use as We Know It

Lynn Goldsmith’s photo of Prince (left) was used to create a series of 16 silkscreen prints by Andy Warhol.
Screenshot: Collection of the Supreme Court of the United States

In 1981 the photographer Lynn Goldsmith took a portrait of Prince. He sits alone on a white background, wearing a blank expression with a glint of light in his eyes. In 1984 Andy Warhol used that photo to create art. Warhol altered the image, adjusting the angle of Prince’s face, layering on swaths of color, darkening the edges, and adding hand-drawn outlines and other details in a series of 16 silkscreen prints.

40 years later, the artwork is at the center of a Supreme Court case that could change the course of American art, copyright law, and even the state of the internet. The question is whether Warhol’s work was fair use, or if he violated Goldsmith’s copyright. In oral arguments on Wednesday, the Court wrestled with the finer points of the issue, and to put it mildly, it’s pretty complicated.

Did Warhol create an entirely new work of art, or was it just a derivative reinterpretation of Goldsmith’s photo? If the art is found to be derivative, the Warhol Foundation will owe Goldsmith millions in fees, royalties, and perhaps additional damages. But the implications of the Supreme Court’s impending decision are a much bigger deal than a few million dollars.

Goldsmith argues that siding against her would pave the way for artists to have their work appropriated without compensation, which she says would decimate the field of photography. On the other side, a ruling in favor of Goldsmith, “would make it illegal for artists, museums, galleries, and collectors to display, sell, profit from, maybe even possess a significant quantity of works,” said Roman Martinez, a lawyer for the Warhol Foundation. “It would also chill the creation of new art by established and up-and-coming artists alike.”

The aftershocks could spread far beyond the art world, too. The question of fair use is a fundamental issue on the internet, social media platforms in particular. For example, YouTube has copyright algorithms that scan every video. If they detect footage or music that YouTube doesn’t have a license to use, the video gets flagged, suspended, or removed. This kind of algorithm is designed to err on the side of caution, and if the rules about fair use become stricter, platforms could get a lot more heavy-handed in their decisions about removing content. Imagine filters that bring down the banhammer on any video that has a visual similarity to copyrighted material. Sure, that would be an extreme outcome, but this is an extreme case. We’re talking about legally erasing the legacy of the most famous artist of the 20th century.

It’s an old cliche that there’s no such thing as completely original art. Every piece owes something to all the art that came before it. The more you’re borrowing from other artists though, the more original you have to be.

You don’t have to pay the original artist if it’s fair use, which is determined based on four factors: the purpose you’re using it for, the nature of the art, how substantially you used the original work, and how your new art affects the market for the original. The lawyers, in this case, focused on the first and fourth factors, purpose and the market.

If your purpose is to say something funny about an existing piece of art, you’re probably in the clear. The Court previously ruled that 2 Live Crew’s take on Roy Orbison’s 1964 classic Pretty Woman was fair use because it’s a parody that substantially “transforms” the original work.

The Warhol Foundation argues that its appropriating prints transform the photograph, too, because they have a different meaning and message. The original photo was just supposed to be a picture of Prince, but Warhol’s work was meant to be a statement about “the dehumanizing effects of celebrity culture in America,” Martinez said.

Chief Justice John Roberts seemed to agree that kind of transformation was possible, but he voiced concerns. What if you just “put a little a smile on his face and say, this is a new message,” Roberts asked. “The message is, ‘Prince can be happy. Prince should be happy.’ Is that enough of a transformation?”

Several Justices seemed uncomfortable with the responsibility of answering that kind of question. So too was a lower court. The Second Circuit Court decided in favor of Goldsmith and threw out the whole question of the meaning and message of a work of art, saying that judges “should not assume the role of art critic.” The Second Circuit said instead that the case should focus on the “character” of the art, which essentially means how aesthetically similar the two pieces are, ruling that Warhol and Goldsmith’s artworks were too much alike for this to be a case of fair use.

Neither side seemed entirely happy with that ruling. Even Goldsmith’s representatives agreed that the 2nd Circuit was wrong, conceding that meaning and message are issues that the legal system should address.

To be fair use, the new art doesn’t just have to be transformative, it has to be different enough that it doesn’t compete as a substitute for the original work in the art market. That could pose a problem for the Warhol Foundation. Goldsmith’s photo was taken for an article about Prince for Newsweek, and Warhol’s piece was used in an article about Prince for Vanity Fair.

“The difficulty of this case is that this particular image is being used, arguably, maybe for the same purpose, to identify an individual in a magazine in a commercial setting,” said Justice Neil Gorsuch.

Justine Sonia Sotomayor seemed to agree, but Justice Roberts challenged the idea. “It’s a different style. It’s a different purpose. One is a commentary on modern society. The other is to show what Prince looks like,” Justice Roberts said.

The arguments were unusually lighthearted for the Court, with both lawyers and Justices cracking jokes about the world of art and pop culture. A chuckling Justice Clarence Thomas made a point to mention he was a fan of Prince, at least in the 80s, while Justice Amy Coney Barrett’s comments suggested a fondness for the “Lord of The Rings.”

But the Court’s decision will have serious implications. A broad ruling in favor of the Warhol Foundation could theoretically make it easier to steal or make liberal use of artists’ work. During the trial, the question of movie adaptations of books got a lot of attention. Justice Sotomayor pointed out that filmmakers reinterpret plots, add characters and dialogue, and make other changes that could be considered transformative, but no one argues that you shouldn’t have to pay an author when you turn their book into a movie.

As Goldsmith’s attorney Lisa Blatt put it, the wrong ruling could mean “anyone could turn Darth Vader into a hero or spin-off ‘All In The Family’ into ‘The Jeffersons’ without paying the creators a dime.”

On the other hand, a narrow ruling in favor of Goldsmith could have huge repercussions for the art world. The estates of pop art icons Robert Rauschenberg and Roy Lichtenstein joined the Brooklyn Museum in an amicus brief, telling the court upholding the 2nd Circuit’s decision, would “impose a deep chill on artistic progress, as creative appropriation of existing images has been a staple of artistic development for centuries.”

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Andy Warhol: Supreme Court to take critical eye to artist’s silkscreens of Prince



CNN
 — 

The Supreme Court will consider Wednesday whether the late Andy Warhol infringed on a photographer’s copyright when he created a series of silkscreens of the musician Prince.

The case marks a rare foray for the court into the world of visual arts and has attracted the attention of those in the art world who say an appeals court decision against Warhol calls into question the legitimacy of generations of artists who have drawn inspiration from preexisting works.

Museums, galleries, collectors, and experts have also weighed in asking the justices to balance copyright law with the First Amendment in a way that will protect artistic freedom.

Central to the case is the so called “fair use” doctrine in copyright law that permits the unlicensed use of copyright-protected works in certain circumstances.

In the case at hand, a district court ruled in favor of Warhol, basing its decision on the fact that the two works in question had a different meaning and message. But an appeals court reversed – ruling that a new meaning or message is not enough to qualify for fair use.

Now the Supreme Court must come up with the proper test.

“Fair Use protects the First Amendment rights of both speakers and listeners by ensuring that those whose speech involves dialogue with preexisting copyrighted works are not prevented from sharing that speech with the world,” a group of art law professors who support the Andy Warhol Foundation told the justices in court papers.

Lawyers for the Warhol Foundation contend that the artist created the “Prince Series” – a set of portraits that transformed a preexisting photograph of the musician Prince– in order to comment on “celebrity and consumerism.”

They said that in 1984, after Prince became a superstar, Vanity Fair commissioned Warhol to create an image of Prince for an article called “Purple Fame.”

At the time, Vanity Fair licensed a black and white photo that had been taken by Lynn Goldsmith in 1981 when Prince was not well known. Goldsmith’s picture was to be used by Warhol as an artist reference.

Goldsmith – who specializes in celebrity portraits and earns money on licensing – had taken the picture initially while on assignment for Newsweek. Her photos of Mick Jagger, Bruce Springsteen, Bob Dylan and Bob Marley are all a part of the court’s record.

Vanity Fair published the illustration based on her photo – once as a full page and once as a quarter page – accompanied by an attribution to her. She was unaware that Warhol was the artist for whom her work would serve as a reference, but she was paid a $400 licensing fee. The license stated “no other usage rights granted.”

Unbeknownst to Goldsmith, Warhol went on to create 15 additional works based on her photograph. At some point after Warhol’s death in 1987, the Warhol Foundation acquired title to and copyright of the so-called “Prince Series.”

Fans pay tribute to Prince

In 2016, after Prince died, Conde Nast, Vanity Fair’s parent company, published a tribute using one of Warhol’s Prince Series works on the cover. Goldsmith was not given any credit or attribution for the image. And she received no payment.

Upon learning about the series, Goldsmith recognized her work and contacted the Warhol Foundation advising it of copyright infringement. She registered her photo with the US Copyright Office.

The Warhol Foundation – believing that Goldsmith would sue – sought a “declaration of noninfringement” from the courts. Goldsmith countersued with a claim of copyright infringement.

A district court ruled in favor of the Warhol Foundation, concluding that the use of the photograph with no permission and no fee constituted fair use.

Warhol’s work was “transformative,” the court said, because it communicated a different message from Goldsmith’s original work. It held that the Prince Series can “reasonably be perceived to have transformed Prince from a vulnerable, uncomfortable person to an iconic, larger-than-life figure.”

The 2nd US Circuit Court of Appeals however, reversed and said that the use of the pictures did not necessarily fall under fair use.

The appeals court said the district court was wrong to assume the “role of art critic” and base its test for fair use on the meaning of the artistic work. Instead, the court should have looked at the degree of visual similarity between the two works.

Under that standard, the court said, the Prince Series was not transformative, but instead “substantially similar” to the Goldsmith photograph and therefore not protected by fair use.

It based its ruling on the fact that a secondary work, even if it adds “new expression” to a source material, can be excluded from fair use. The appeals court said the secondary work’s use of the original source material has to have a “fundamentally different and new” artistic purpose and character “such that the secondary work stands apart from the raw material used to create it.” The court emphasized that the primary work does not have to be barely recognizable within the secondary work, but that at a minimum it must ” comprise something more than the imposition of another artist’s style on the primary work.”

The court said that the “overarching purpose and function” of the Goldsmith photo and the Warhol prints is identical because they are “portraits of the same person.”

“Critically, the Prince Series retains the essential elements of the Goldsmith Photograph without significantly adding to or altering those elements, ” the court concluded.

In appealing the case on behalf of the Warhol Foundation, lawyer Roman Martinez argued that the appeals court had gone badly wrong by forbidding courts from considering the meaning of the work as a part of a fair use analysis.

He warned the court that if it were to embrace the reasoning of the appeals court, it would upend settled copyright principles and chill creativity and expression “at the heart of the First Amendment.”

According to Martinez, copyright law is designed to foster innovation and sometimes builds on the achievements of others.

Martinez stressed that the fair use doctrine – “which dates back at least to the 19th century” – reflects the recognition that a rigid application of the copyright statute would “stifle the very creativity which that laws was designed to foster.”

He noted that Warhol’s works are currently found in collections across the world, including the Museum of Modern Art in New York, the Smithsonian collection and the Tate Modern in London. From 2004 through 2014 Warhol auction sales exceeded $3 billion.

Martinez said Warhol made substantial changes by cropping Goldsmith’s image, resizing it, altering the angle of Prince’s face while changing tones, lighting and detail.

“While Goldsmith portrayed Prince as a vulnerable human, Warhol made significant alterations that erased the humanity from the image, as a way of commenting on society’s conception of celebrities as products, not people,” Martinez argued and added, “the Prince series is thus transformative.”

Lisa Blatt, a lawyer for Goldsmith, told the justices a very different story.

“To all creators, the 1976 Copyright Act enshrines a longstanding promise: Create innovative works, and copyright law guarantees your right to control if, when and how your works are viewed, distributed, reproduced or adapted,” she wrote.

She said that creators and multibillion-dollar licensing industries “rely on that premise.”

She said that the Andy Warhol Foundation should have paid Goldsmith’s copyright fees. Blatt argued that Warhol’s work was almost identical to Goldsmith’s own.

“Fame is not a ticket to trample other artists’ copyrights,” she said.

The Biden administration is supporting Goldsmith in the case.

Solicitor General Elizabeth Prelogar noted, for example, that book-to-film adaptations often introduce new meanings or messages, “but that has never been viewed as an independently sufficient justification for unauthorized copying.” She said that Goldsmith’s ability to license her photograph and earn fees has been “undermined” by the Warhol Foundation.

The Art Institute of Chicago and other museums told the court that the appeals court decision has caused uncertainty not only for the work of arts themselves but the market for copies of works the museum creates through catalogues, documentaries and websites.

Smokey Robinson on Prince: ‘He was a genius’

Lawyers for the museums also noted that the lower court opinion “failed to consider” longstanding artistic traditions of using elements of pre-existing works in new works and asked the Supreme Court to revisit the appeals court ruling.

In the Baroque era, for example, Giovanni Panini painted modern Rome (pictured in court papers) depicting a gallery showing famous art. Included are copies of preexisting works including Michelangelo’s Moses, Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s statutes of Constantine, David, Apollo and Daphne and his fountains of Piazza Navona. Contemporary artists also continue to leverage preexisting artwork, the museums argued. The street artist Banksy, for example, painted a piece, “Girl with a Pierced Eardrum” onto a building in Bristol. It was in reference to Johannes Vermeer’s masterpiece, “Girl with a Pearl Earring” from 1665.

“All of these works would not be considered transformative under the Second’s circuit’s” approach, the museums argued.

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